Score
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Best
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Side-view dirt-bike on a new course every run. Kickers fling you over gaps — lean forward or back in the air to match the landing slope while the bike keeps getting faster.
The bike rides by itself; you only control its pitch in the air. Hold ◀ (or anywhere on the left half) to lift the nose and ▶ (right half) to drop it — arrow keys or A/D also work. The spin carries on for a moment after you let go, so release a little early, and touch down with the bike lined up with the ground under you.
Every run builds a new course of rollers and jumps. A jump is a kicker ramp, a gap and a landing slope, and each one asks for something different: most land on a slope much steeper than the kicker and need a firm forward lean; some are long, high flights onto a slope that already matches your take-off angle, where holding a button the whole way over-rotates you; and some drop you onto an uphill face that needs the nose lifted with ◀. The rollers between jumps almost never lift you, and the first 300 metres are small jumps you can ride without touching anything.
A landing is clean when the bike's angle is within the tolerance of the ground slope at the point of contact: about 34 degrees at first, narrowing steadily to about 24 degrees by 3.3 km. Outside it — nose too high or too low — you crash. The dial between the buttons shows the bike's current angle.
The bike starts at 16.5 m/s (59 km/h) and, after 300 metres, gains 4 m/s for every kilometre, with no top speed. Faster means longer jumps and less time to read the landing; the screen always shows about 24 metres ahead. There is no clock. You have three lives: a crash costs one and a 1.5-second tumble, then you restart where you fell and blink for 1.2 seconds, during which bad landings are forgiven. Your score is the distance in metres.
Read the landing, not the kicker. As you climb the ramp, look at where the arc will come down. If that slope is much steeper than the ramp you are on, press ▶ as you leave the lip; if it points roughly the same way as the ramp, leave the buttons alone; if the far side rises, lift with ◀. Pressing early is fine — the lean only starts working the moment the wheels leave the ground.
Let go before the bike reaches the angle you want. The spin fades over about a third of a second after release, so the nose keeps turning a little. On a long flight, a firm press and an early release is steadier than holding and fixing it at the last moment. Watch the dial: you want its line parallel to the landing slope just before contact.
No single habit survives a whole run. Holding ▶ through every flight saves you on the short, steep jumps and over-rotates you on the long ones, and doing nothing crashes most forward jumps once you are past the first 300 metres. Decide on each jump separately.
Speed and the narrowing tolerance squeeze together. Beyond about 3 km the longest flights land further ahead than the screen shows at take-off, so you have to commit to a correction the moment the landing slides into view. After a crash the 1.2-second blink forgives bad landings — handy if a jump comes straight after the restart, but the next one counts.