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Push off with fast taps, then lean a bobsled through banked ice curves: ride too high and it rolls over the rim, lean too hard and you bleed speed while a red pace light chases you down a new track every run.
Tap anywhere as fast as you can to push the sled off; the crew jumps in after 50 m. Then hold the left or right half of the screen (or the arrow keys) to lean the sled across the round ice channel. Keep the yellow dot on the gauge out of the red, and stay ahead of the red pace light.
Every push tap adds speed, a little less the faster the sled already runs (it tops out near 43 km/h), and taps closer than 0.07 s apart do not count. Nothing moves until your first tap, and that first tap also starts the pace light.
In a curve the sled is thrown up the outer wall: a right-hand bend sends it up the left wall. The green tick on the gauge is the natural line, the height where the sled would settle at your speed, and it climbs as you go faster or the bend gets tighter. The sled swings past that line on the way in and out of each bend, then settles. Above 69° the wall turns red; past 83° the sled rolls over the rim and the run is over.
Holding a side pushes the sled toward that wall, so leaning toward the inside of a bend holds it lower. But a lean makes the runners scrape: every second you hold one costs about 3.5 km/h. Riding the natural line is free, riding below it is slow.
The pace light starts 70 m behind you at 22 km/h and gains 1.8 km/h every second, with no limit. The PACE box shows how many seconds ahead of it you are; if it reaches you, the run ends. Even a sled that never leans and never flips is caught within 253 seconds, so every run ends.
The track is new every run. It keeps getting steeper, which raises your top speed (about 137 km/h at the top, more further down), and its curves keep getting tighter: their radius halves by 4 km. Chevron boards on the outer wall and the mini-map in the corner show what is coming, coloured green, amber or red by how high that bend will throw the sled at your current speed. Your score is the distance you cover, to a tenth of a metre.
Think of the lean as a brake you pay for. The cheapest run is one where you barely touch the screen on straights and gentle bends and spend your leans only where the gauge says you must. Watch the gap between the yellow dot and the green tick: if the dot is riding above the tick on its way up a wall, that is the swing that flips you, and a short lean toward the inside of the bend now saves a long one later.
The dangerous moments are the transitions, not the middle of a curve. On the way in, the sled overshoots its natural line, so start leaning toward the inside just as the bend begins, then let go as the dot settles. On the way out it swings down and across the floor, and in an S-bend, where one curve flips straight into the opposite one, that swing can carry it high up the other wall. Lean toward the wall it is leaving to slow the drop, and be ready for the next one.
Use the mini-map and the chevron boards to plan. A green bend can be ridden hands-off; an amber one usually needs a tap of lean on entry; a red one means that at your current speed the natural line is close to the red zone, so plan to hold the inside for most of it. The colours are worked out at the speed you have now, and you keep gaining speed, so a bend that looks amber from far away is often red by the time you arrive.
Do not skimp on the push. Every km/h you carry out of the start is a few seconds of cushion against the pace light, and early on the pace light is the only thing behind you. Tap as fast as you can but keep a steady rhythm. Later in the run, keep an eye on the PACE box: when it drops under about 3 seconds, every unnecessary lean brings the pace light closer, so trust the natural line where you can.